Tacos by way of Puerto Rico

Eli Acosta and his family-run food truck called That Taco Guy bring to Ozaukee County stops a menu of tacos and other Latino treats enlivened with recipes from Eli’s Puerto Rican mother THE OFFSEASON FOR the That Taco Guy food truck gets shorter each year as Eli Acosta and his family continue to add parties and corporate events, as well as making tamales and canned Texas Candy, a sweet and spicy jalapeno sauce. Photos by Sam Arendt
Eli and Andrea Acosta cover hundreds of miles in their food truck during Wisconsin’s warmer months, but the origin of their recipes hails from more than 2,000 miles away.
Eli, the chef of the family-run That Taco Guy, takes inspiration from his Puerto-Rican born parents in concocting unique specialties.
“Cooking was something I grew with up in the home. My mom cooked all our meals,” he said.
“My brothers and I, we like to eat, so once you move out of the house and you’re not by mom anymore and you want to eat something, you call mom. ‘This is what I want to do. How should I do it?’ That’s where my enjoyment comes from. I like to eat good food. If I’m going to make it, I’m going to enjoy it also,” Acosta said.
He’s not the only one who relishes his cooking. That Taco Guy has garnered regional appeal, and the food truck turns 10 this year.
The business is distinctive for more than the delicious results of its original recipes. In their first nine years in business, the Acostas have donated more than $103,000 to charity despite being open an average of only 91 days per year.
“While that number may not seem extraordinary over nearly a decade, it carries special meaning for us as a small, family run business operating a single food truck,” Acosta said. “Reaching this level of giving is something we’re truly proud of. Supporting our neighbors and giving back to the community has always been at the heart of what we do.”
The beneficiaries of their giving are as varied as their flavors — schools, animals, veterans, those with disabilities — but one thing stays the same. “Most of the nonprofits we like to work with are local. We live in Ozaukee County. We want to make sure our customer base are our neighbors,” Eli’s wife Andrea said.
“When we started our biz, we knew this would be an instrumental part of it. It’s who we are as people.”
Running a food truck wasn’t on the career menu.
Eli joined the Coast Guard after high school — he was stationed in Kenosha — then held multiple jobs in manufacturing, construction and sales, most recently in material handling.
“You name it. I’ve done everything,” he said.
Andrea worked in real estate for 15 years and was a federal agent in the criminal division with the U.S. Treasury Department. She now works as executive director of Ozaukee Food Alliance, and Eli is on the board of directors.
The food truck was expected to be a part-time job, just working a few summer festivals and the county fair.
“But there was some immediate success that came with events. I feel we were lucky in that aspect. There was interest in what we were doing in our food and our product,” Eli said.
“Within a week I was in my boss’ office and getting calls to do jobs. I needed a sabbatical to see if there’s something there. A little ember, a little spark.”
That quickly turned into a fully involved fire.
“Before you knew it, I was quitting my job,” Eli said.
He turned his passion for cooking into his profession, and it’s more than just making meals for people.
“Having the food truck there is a connection, I feel. I make my own product, roast my own meat rub, make my own salsas. When you say that’s the best taco, best sandwich, best burger, it means something because you’ve never had anything like that,” he said. “It’s connected directly to my family my culture. These are my flavors. I bring from the past that I feel gets lost sometimes in our fast-paced world.”
Andrea said “It’s his soul that’s in the food.”
Seasonal events are still a core part of the business, but the Acostas also sell items made in their commercial kitchen in Cedarburg. Tamales and jarred Texas Candy, made from Eli’s recipe for spiced and candied jalapenos in vinegar — a sweet and spicy topping for tacos and other dishes — are available through Frannie’s Market in Cedarburg. Tamales can be ordered on the website, which also has a video on how to cook them.
The Acostas also do catering jobs for parties, weddings and corporate events, making connections with their customers.
“As the years go on, people ask about the offseason,” Eli said “I see it as a year-round business.”
They’ve had multiple offers to open a brick-and-mortar restaurant and examine every option, but they have always stayed in the truck.
“Every single time, the deciding factor is we are just not brick-and-mortar people. Eli likes to interact. If he’s in a kitchen that’s not something he gets to do,” Andrea said.
They also enjoy their time at events and can often be found singing and dancing to live music.
“We say when That Taco Guy shows up, the party’s going to start,” Eli said.
“In a restaurant setting, it feels like work to us. On a beautiful day when it’s sunny out and the breeze is blowing, there’s nothing better.”
Countless hours of work go into having that fun. The truck will arrive for an evening event at around 10 a.m. to start setting up.
“You only see us from 5 to 9 p.m.,” Andrea said.
Despite operating on wheels, they are not immune to the pressures of running a small business.
“One bad day affects the overall business. That’s the hardest part of having a small business. You don’t have deep pockets to lean into,” Eli said.
“It’s not a get-rich-quick scheme. You’re going to have to work for every sale. One way or the other, you’re going to put in the time, the front end or the back end.”
Eli’s work ethic comes from his upbringing. In the 1970s, his mother and father moved to the United States for better job opportunities.
“My mom is the one that keeps me grounded. Always remember that the person in front of you buying that taco. They don’t care that your dog died last week, your kid’s in trouble in school — make sure that is going to be the food somebody is going to eat. She’s the one that keeps me focused on where to keep my energies focused,” he said.
His mother is retired after working as head cook for the Head Start program in Eau Claire.
The Acostas’ children — ages 21, 17 and 13 — help with the truck. The oldest daughter does social media posts and flyers. The young adult son loves to cook and their youngest daughter enjoys customer service and math, helping to balance the cash register at the end of the day.
The trio also serve as taste-testers.
Eli continues to add his interpretations to his mother’s flavors with other inspiration.
“I just took our nachos and put everything that is on our tacos on the nachos. Our oldest daughter said why is that not on the menu?” Andrea said.
Their elotes quesadilla was created when Andrea couldn’t decide between having Mexican street corn or a quesadilla.
For more information, visit https://thattacoguy.com.
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