Supper club sees spike in younger customers

NO NO’S SUPPER CLUB owner Kevin Rogowski stood at the bar with his wife Shelly and their six-month-old daughter Kylie who is popular among the regulars. Rogowski said supper clubs are a dying art in recent times, but he is seeing younger generations seeking the fine-dining experience. Photo by Sam Arendt
No No’s Supper Club owner Kevin Rogowski said traditional restaurants are a dying breed these days. However, he expects to see a resurgence with more young adults frequenting his establishment in Newburg.
“I kind of consider myself an old-school chef who likes the supper-club style. It’s a dying art these days and you don’t see too many supper clubs around anymore,” he said. “In my opinion, supper clubs are going to regain popularity in the future because a lot of people in their 20s and 30s check out these new trendy restaurants and they are learning what it means to go out for a true four-course dinner.
“They’re looking for more ambience and want to be wined and dined and catered to.”
He said the waning trend in the supper club industry is due to an aging population, but younger generations want to return to the classic dining experience they had when they would dine out with their families.
Rogowski began working as a dishwasher when he was 14 at the restaurant at 3498 Hwy. 33. Three years ago, he bought the business from Norine McGaw; her childhood nickname is the namesake of the establishment.
“I’ve been here for 24 years and I’ve never left the kitchen,” he said. “It has always had that supper club atmosphere here and I added supper club to the name when I took over.”
Rogowski attended culinary school at Milwaukee Area Technical College and eventually became an executive sous chef at Ozaukee Country Club in Mequon. He said he would frequently help out at No No’s during its busy times before he took over as owner.
“It’s totally different working for a private club than a public place like this,” he said. “I can be more creative with things here.”
He said some longtime customers are not so accepting of change, but Rogowski is slowly introducing them to new twists with the traditional cuisine.
“It seems like my older clientele and customer base are not so eager to try an exotic dish or something out of the box like new seafood dishes and healthier sides like quinoa,” Rogowski said. “If they don’t know what it is, they’re not going to eat it. They like their traditional comfort foods.”
Rogowski said relish trays, breadsticks, prime rib and a salad bar is what differentiates a supper club from other types of eateries.
“Obviously we’re in Wisconsin, so an old fashioned cocktail also adds to the experience,” he said.
The building was built in the 1930s and was initially a dance hall. Over the years, it became a fine-dining establishment that underwent several reincarnations.
Rogowski said the busiest time of the year is during Lent, when Friday fish fries are in popular demand.
“On Ash Wednesday, we don’t get busy until church let’s out in town. During Lent, the average goes up and it’s our busiest time of the year. Reservations are recommended,” Rogowski’s wife and restaurant manager Shelly said.
Rogowski is gearing up for the busy season that starts at the end of February, by stockpiling smelt.
“With smelt, people will come here from all over because it’s hard to find,” he said, noting he has 40 cases of the fish in his freezer. “Come Ash Wednesday, you’re probably not going to be able to find it.”
Another popular item at the restaurant is the couple’s 6-month-old daughter Kylie.
“All the customers love her. She’s a social butterfly. We call her our hostess and she loves the noise and chaos,” Shelly said.
The couple’s two sons Dalton and Levi are in middle school and help out on the weekends. Rogowski said Dalton eventually wants to take over his the business.
The family is currently renovating a house and is living above the supper club. Rogowski said it’s nice to be able to always check in on the business, but it’s hard to get away from work.
“It can get pretty chaotic here on Friday and Saturday nights, but our family is a team and that’s what makes it work,” he said.
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