Restraint, research best weapons in war on bugs

The bugs are here. Now what are you going to do about it? 

They munch and suck and threaten to lay waste to the hard work and care that’s been put into plants just when they are starting to show off. And while a quick fix sounds good, it’s almost never the right approach.

In other words, step away from that bottle of “kills it all” powder or spray.

The first step to fighting whatever bug is troubling your plants is to identify it to make sure it is indeed the insect that is causing the problem and not a “good” bug that has arrived to take care of the problem-causing bugs and guide the control method.

Rose growers may be noticing small holes in leaves now. These are caused by sawfly larvae and are sometimes called rose slugs, which appear at first as tiny, green, caterpillar-like bugs that grow quickly as they feed. They can be found on the underside of leaves, and in the early stages of the infestation, they can be squished or even sprayed off with a blast of water.

If insecticides are necessary, you can start with lower-impact options like horticultural oil, neem oil or insecticidal soap. If that doesn’t control the problem, a product with spinosad may work. Any sprays need to be applied to both sides of the leaves, with special attention to the underside.

Aphids are another common insect pest that can turn up around this time. They often target tender new growth and may be attracted to plants that have been heavily fertilized.

They are a favorite meal of many insect predators, so a wait-and-see approach can often work best. If, after a day, there is still a large concentration of aphids, you can start with a blast of water from the hose. If the problem continues, you can again reach for insecticidal soap or simply remove the affected foliage.

Japanese beetles will be arriving soon and targeting a wide range of plants — more than 300 species — including roses, fruit trees, raspberries and dahlias. The damage caused by the shiny, black beetles is primarily aesthetic, but their white grub larvae can cause dead patches in lawn.

Control of adults should start as soon as they are spotted, typically by hand-picking into a cup of soapy water. If high populations make hand-picking ineffective, plants can be protected with fine mesh netting or tulle fabric during the six weeks or so that the beetles are present.

Lower risk insecticides containing pyrethrins can be sprayed directly on the beetles. Neem oil can help deter the beetles, but repeated applications every few days are necessary. Both methods are somewhat effective.

Grub damage to lawns can be treated with parasitic nematodes, milky spore bacteria or Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Application timing is important and can vary depending the situation, so care should be taken to research when to apply.

That advice holds true for most garden insect management: A little research goes a long way in effectively and responsibly taking care of whatever is damaging your plants.